Circular walk to Land's End and Nanjizal from Sennen Cove
  1. From the harbour car park, walk through the gap between the public toilets and Cape Cornwall Gig Racing Club and turn left. Walk uphill to a waymarked flight of steps leading up the headland.

    The reason that Cape Cornwall could once have been thought to be the most westerly point of the British mainland it that is almost is. The tip of Cape Cornwall is further west than the coastguard lookout overlooking Sennen Cove and the shipwreck near Land's End.

    In fact, the longitude of Cape Cornwall's most westerly point is approximately equivalent to the exit from the Land's End coach parking area. The most westerly point on Dr Syntax's head is only about 450 metres further west than this.

  2. Climb the steps and follow the coast path through the gate to the lookout on the headland.

    Crocosmia (also known as Montbretia) is a garden plant in the iris family with bright orange flowers in summer. It has South African origins and was bred in France in 1879 as a garden plant hybridised from two wild plants, then introduced into the UK in the 1880s.

    The main Sennen Coastguard Station was built in 1812 and initially consisted of a row of eight houses, a fuel house and a store which housed the rocket cart and rescue equipment, close to the steps where the coast path climbs the headland. The Sennen station was closed after a reorganisation of the coastguard service in the early 1980s, and the Lands End coastguard service now operates out of Polgigga, on the main road to both Sennen and Gwennap Head.

  3. From the lookout, follow the coast path marked with granite waymark posts to reach a granite donation box for the National Trust.

    In 1891, the granite lookout was built on the cliffs at Pedn-Men-Du for use by the Sennen Coastguard. It is now owned by the National Trust and during the summer, the lookout is open to the public and equipped with telescopes. Dolphins, Ocean Sunfish, Basking Sharks and Royal Marines have all been sighted from here. A whiteboard inside records details of recent observations.

  4. Continue on the coast path around a narrow inlet to a flight of steps to the right with a Sharp Metal Hazard sign.

    Jackdaws are one of the most common birds along the coast here.

    Jackdaws are able to recognise eye gestures from humans (e.g. if someone looks at where a food item is hidden). It has been suggested that jackdaws may use this with other birds too and this may be the reason that they have a striking blue eye colour that is easily seen from a distance.

  5. Continue a short distance further up to the headland to reach a granite waymark where a path leads off to the right to Maen Cliff Castle.

    The sign refers to the shipwreck of the RMS Mullheim which is visible from the area below the steps.

    The RMS Mulheim was a large cargo ship which ran aground near Land's End in spring 2003. The chief officer, who was on watch, caught his trousers on a lever on his chair as he stood up and fell, hitting his head and becoming unconscious. By the time he awoke, the ship was approaching the shoreline and was too close to be able to turn and it ran aground in Gamper Bay. The ship was carrying over 2000 tonnes of plastic scrap from cars. Most of the cargo was removed but some was lost in the ocean as the hull started to break up. Storms the following autumn finally broke the wreck in two and pushed the pieces into Castle Zawn. Some of the cargo washed up on Cornish beaches over the next year or so.

    More about the RMS Mulheim

  6. Continue on the coast path to pass through a kissing gate and continue until, as you approach the Land's End buildings, the crazy-paved path forks either side of a large granite boulder with a concrete foundation just behind this.

    Maen Castle was an Iron Age promontory fort, protected by a bank reinforced with granite boulders. It is one of only two fortified sites in Cornwall where Early Iron Age pottery has been found. There are some indications that the site may have been occupied before the defences were constructed, possibly in the Bronze Age or Neolithic times.

    The name is from Men - the Cornish word for "stone". The name "Mayon Cliff" is likely to have similar origins.

  7. Take the right-hand path towards the isolated building in front of the lighthouse. Follow the path until it ends on a tarmacked track.

    Land's End is the most westerly point on the English mainland and is consequently the last place that the sun sets on mainland England. It is 5.73 degrees west of the Greenwich Meridian and since each 15 degrees is an hour of time difference, Land's End is 22 minutes and 28 seconds behind London. It's therefore possible to drink a couple of glasses of wine watching the sun set whilst all the while it's been dark in London. The official Cornish name Pen an Wlas means "End of the Earth". The earliest record of a name is Penwith Steort from 997 which is Old English for "End of Penwith". As the name was by non-Cornish speakers, they probably didn't realise that Penwith already meant "extreme end".

  8. Bear right to pass in front of The First And Last House, then follow the outermost track to a junction of tracks where a gravel path departs to the right just before the area outside the buildings.

    The most westerly point on the British mainland is named Dr Syntax's Head after a fictitious schoolmaster hero in three popular books between 1812 and 1821. The character was portrayed with a long, pointed chin which the narrow peninsula of land resembles.

  9. Bear right onto the stony path and follow this to a view point. Continue on the rocky path along the outside of the wall to reach a lookout building with a conical roof.

    Well over 100 wrecks are recorded off Land's End. The reefs off Lands End were so treacherous for sailing vessels that many of the pilgrims from Ireland on their way to the continent preferred to walk from one coast of Cornwall to the other rather than rely on faith for this part of their journey.

    The 12 mile crossing from Lelant to Marazion, known as St Micheal's Way, also avoided the perilous coastline at Pendeen and the Runnelstone reef near Gwennap Head.

    The 29 mile Saint's Way crossing from Padstow to Fowey additionally avoided the hazardous reefs of Trevose Head, Godrevy and The Lizard.

  10. From the lookout, follow the gravel path along the coast until you reach a junction of paths with a waymark post.

    There are three named rocks within the Longships reef:

    The innermost rocks are known as Tal-y-maen which means something along the lines of "front stone" in Cornish.
    Carn Bras, in the middle with the lighthouse, means "large rock".
    The outermost rock is known as Meinek which simply means "stony".
  11. Turn right at the junction and follow the path past the information boards until it crosses a footbridge at another junction of paths.

    The pyramidal inshore rock is known as the Armed Knight. The name is thought to stem from the spire of rock protruding from the top resembling a jousting pole. According to one source, the rock was once known by the Cornish names An Marogeth Arvowed (the armed knight) and Carne-an-peul (javelin rock).

  12. After the footbridge, keep right and follow the path up the steps onto the headland. Then keep left to follow along the fence on your left. Continue until the path emerges through a line of boulders to a junction of paths near the farm.

    The Longships Lighthouse is located just over a mile off Land's End on the highest of the islets known as Carn Bras. The original tower built in 1795 was 40ft high, perched on the 39ft high rock but despite the lantern being nearly 80ft above the sea, it was sometimes obscured by the huge waves off Lands End. A new taller tower was therefore constructed starting in 1869 and completed in 1873 and was manned until 1988. The current lantern emits a white flash seaward, but red-tinted glass colours the light for any vessel straying to the headlands to the north or south.

  13. Go through the gap and bear right at the fork. Follow the coast path until you reach a waymark for Mill Bay.

    The island with a cave is known as Enys Dodnan and provides a nesting site for black-backed gulls. This first part of the name is the Cornish word for "island". The second may have a similar origin to Dodman Point on The Roseland, referring to the bodies washed ashore from shipwrecks i.e. "Dead Man's Point/Island".

    The Greater Black-backed Gull is the largest member of the gull family and a bird of formidable size, with a wingspan of nearly 6ft. Unlike other gulls, the Greater Black-backed Gull is highly predatory. Young birds are a significant portion of its diet and it tends to live amongst other seabirds where it can eat the neighbours. It has also been known to swallow whole rabbits and even eat young lambs. It often steals food from other seabirds using its large size to intimidate them into dropping it, and consequently it is sometimes referred to as a pirate.

  14. At the waymark, bear right off the coast path along the permissive path around the headland (which has superior views) and follow this to merge with the coast path a short distance before a line of boundary stones. Continue on the coast path down some steps to the bottom of a small gully.

    The headland at Land's End has been designated part of an Important Plant Area by the organisation Plantlife for rare species of flora. A band of coastal heath extends all the way from Sennen to Gwennap Head, but different steepnesses of slopes support different plant species.

  15. Follow the coast path out onto the headland and keep following the main path along the coast to descend into the next valley. Follow the path through a couple of gaps in walls to one with a wooden post on the other side.

    Scurvy grass has thick, flesh leaves that look a little similar to ivy leaves in shape and its flowers have 4 white petals forming a cross. It flowers around the same time as primroses - in March and April - and the flowers have a pleasant scent reminiscent of jasmine. It is a member of the cabbage family, related to rocket and horseradish and the flavour is hot like horseradish.

    Scurvy grass gets its name as it was salted and carried aboard ships to help prevent scurvy during long sea voyages as it is rich in vitamin C. The saltiness combined with the powerful hot flavour might well have needed a daily ration of rum to wash it down!

    In March 1967, the oil tanker Torrey Canyon was on its way from Kuwait to Milford Haven with a full cargo of 120,000 tons of crude oil. The ship took a short-cut passing close to Land's End and struck the Pollard Rock on the Seven Stones reef. Attempts to refloat the tanker were unsuccessful and as it began to break up, the cargo of crude oil was released which at the time was the most serious oil spill and costliest shipping disaster that there had ever been. Despite efforts of the military to burn off the oil by dropping aviation fuel and forty-two 1000lb bombs (25% of which missed) onto the wreck, and incendiaries similar to napalm onto the slick, the oil contaminated 120 miles of Cornish coastline. Large amounts of dispersants were used to break up the oil which were themselves quite toxic. The environmental disaster resulted in the death of 15,000 seabirds, and tar from the spill could still be found on Cornish beaches during the 1970s and 80s. Ironically, the remains of the ship in 30 metres of water have created an artificial reef which is now covered in kelp and is a haven for marine life.

  16. Cross the wall and continue on the coast path to a tall waymark.

    In March 1884 the "Balbec" was on its way from Liverpool to France with a cargo of hides, chemicals and general goods from Manchester. The tide was exceptionally low and the vessel grounded on an uncharted reef which would not normally have been shallow enough to cause a problem. The ship was taking on water faster than the pumps could remove it so the captain ran the Balbec ashore at Nanjizal in an effort to save the cargo and crew. All 29 crew and five passengers were rescued. The ship was a total wreck.

    Photo from 1884 at the National Maritime Museum

  17. Continue ahead at the waymark and cross the bridge to reach another waymark.

    Tin mining was carried out at Nanjizal Cove during Victorian times and in earlier times on a smaller scale. The location on the cliffs meant that water could be drained from the mines through tunnels out to the cliffs (known as drainage adits). Not far from the stile on the coast path is an opening which was an entrance into the mine (known as an "adit portal" - the word "adit" was used for any kind of horizontal tunnel). A little closer to Nanjizal along the coast path is a gully which is the remains of an "openwork" - an open-cast mine which was worked prior to Victorian times. The wheel pit next to the coast path in the valley was used to drive stamping (ore crushing) machinery.

  18. Bear left onto the path uphill towards another waymark with a blue arrow. Continue on the path in the direction of the blue arrow until it ends on a track.

    In March 1912 the steamship City of Cardiff was on its way to France with a cargo of grain but was washed ashore at Nanjizal by a gale. The captain, crew and captain's family were all rescued by breeches buoy but the vessel was wrecked.

    Photo from 1912 at the National Maritime Museum

  19. Turn right onto the track and follow it through the gate. Pass through another metal gate and continue until it ends at a third metal gate with a pedestrian gate alongside.

    Although it's obvious that you should ensure any gates that you open, you also close, what about gates you find that are already open?

    If the gate is fully open then leave it alone as it may well be providing livestock access to a water supply, and by closing it you could end up killing them.

    If the gate is ajar or swinging loose and not wedged or tied open then it's likely that the gate was left open by accident (possibly by another group of walkers). Properly closing the offending gate behind you will not only bring joy to the landowner but you can feel good about saving lives in a car swerving to avoid a cow in the road.

    If you encounter a gate doubly-secured with twine that can be untied or a chain that can be unfastened, it's normally there because naughty animals have managed to undo the gate themselves at some point (e.g. by rubbing against the bolt), so retie/fasten it afterwards.

  20. Go through the pedestrian gate on the left and turn left onto the track. Follow it until you reach a waymark at a fork in the track.

    Public byways are rights of way down which motor vehicles may be driven depending on how brave you are and how expensive your car is to fix. You are also permitted to use a horse-drawn carriage, should you own one. Byways tend to be surfaced in an ad-hoc manner either with gravel or occasionally with a smattering of tarmac, but still leaving plenty of room for a good crop of grass to grow down the centre. They are conventionally marked using red waymarks or a "Public Byway" sign. There are 130 miles of byways in Cornwall.

  21. Bear left at the waymark and follow the track through a gate and past a gate on the left to reach a stile on the left, just past the telegraph pole.

    The farm at the junction is Higher Bosistow. Further along the lane (after the telegraph pole that you stop at) is Lower Bosistow.

    The higher of the two farms is first recorded in the 13th Century as Bodestou. The building has been rebuilt and modified over the years but parts of the current building may date back to the 17th Century. In the 18th Century, the farm was bought by a wealthy landowning family. One of their descendants in the 19th Century decided to build a more elegant residence to reflect his perceived status and this is the Lower Bosistow farmhouse (his parents remained in the upper farmhouse).

  22. Cross the stile on the left and follow the wall on the left all the way across the field, passing one gateway, to reach a gateway in the far hedge.

    Lichens are a partnership of two different organisms: a fungus providing the "accommodation" and an alga or cyanobacterium providing the "food" through photosynthesis. The fungal partner provides a cosy, sheltered environment for the alga and tends it with mineral nutrients. However, the alga partner is more than simply an imprisoned food-slave: it is such a closely-evolved alliance that the fungus is dependant on the alga for its structure. If the fungal partner is isolated and grown on an agar plate, it forms a shapeless, infertile blob.

  23. Go through the gateway and follow the right hedge to a stile in the corner (if there are crops in the field and the path through them leads to the gate instead then use this).

    Barley is a fundamental part of the rural culture - the word "barn" literally means "barley house". During mediaeval times, only the ruling classes had bread made from wheat; the peasants' bread was made from barley and rye.

  24. Cross the stile (or go through the gate) and follow all the way along the wall on the left to a metal gate in the far corner of the field.

    The site with the dishes is known as Skewjack, after the name of the neighbouring farm.

    Skewjack was formerly the RAF Sennen radar site. In the 1970s, the Lands End Radio maritime station moved here and a surf village (self-catering accommodation) was also based here. The site is now used for the British terminus for the Fibre Optic Around the Globe project.

  25. Go through the gate and head down the field, very slightly to the left as you descend, to a gap in the bottom hedge with a boulder protruding into it.

    Blackthorn and hawthorn trees both grow in similar places but in each season there are different ways to tell them apart.

    In spring, blackthorn is one of the first trees to flower. The white blossom appears before the leaves in April. In warm weather, the leaves may quickly catch up and this is when it can get mistaken for hawthorn, which produces leaves before flowers. However, there are a few other ways to distinguish the flowers: blackthorn pollen is orange whereas hawthorn is pink, fading to black. Hawthorn petals overlap each other whereas blackthorn is more "gappy".

    In summer, the leaf shape can be used to tell them apart. Blackthorn leaves are a classic leaf shape with slightly serrated edges. Hawthorn leaves have deep notches dividing the leaf into several lobes a bit like oak.

    In autumn, pretty much all hawthorn trees have small red berries, even the windswept specimens on the coast. Blackthorn trees may have purple sloes, but not all the trees fruit each year. Some years seem to result in a lot more sloes than others.

    Hawthorn trees are often a little bigger than blackthorn, especially in harsh environments such as on the coast. Blackthorn tends to form thickets whereas hawthorn are typically distinct trees. Hawthorn bark is usually shiny whereas blackthorn is dull. The thorns on hawthorn tend to be shorter (less then 2cm) and point slightly forwards on the stem. Blackthorn has longer spikes that stick out at right angles.

  26. Go through the gap and follow the path to reach a stile. Cross this and the stone stile/bridge construct beyond it. Then follow the path uphill until you reach a T-junction.

    Bluebells flower along the path during the spring.

    Because bluebells spread very slowly, they're considered to be an indicator of ancient woodland sites. In areas where trees are not very old, the fact there are bluebells around can indicate that there has been a wood on a site for a very long time. Even if there are no trees there at all, bluebells tell us that there was woodland there some time in the past. The bluebells along the coast are a relic of the gnarled oak woodland that used to grow here before it was cleared for grazing. There is still a patch of the ancient oak woodland left along the coast at Dizzard.

    In mediaeval times, blackthorn was associated with evil. This may also tie in with the English word "strife" which has Celtic origins. Straif was the name of a letter used in Celtic Ogham script and was originally the word for "sulphur". Some of the other letters in the script corresponded to tree names. In late mediaeval times, a retrospective assignment of trees to the letters in the alphabet used for Ogham that weren't already tree names became popular (sometimes known as the "tree alphabet") and blackthorn was chosen for Straif.

  27. Turn right at the junction and follow the path to the remains of a kissing gate at the edge of a field. Head straight across the field to the pair of gateways opposite.

    Stone Age flints have been found in nearly all of the fields here. Some are thought to be from the Neolithic period (from about 4500BC up to the start of the Bronze Age) and others are thought to date from the Mesolithic period (up to 15,000 years ago). To get an idea how old that is, the Egyptian Pyramids were built around the start of the Bronze Age, so that's up to about 10,000 years before that.

  28. Go through the gateway on the left and follow the right hedge to another gateway.

    Burdock flowers in July and August with pink flowers which look a little like thistle flowers. However burdock's soft, broad, foxglove-like leaves make it easy to distinguish.

    The "bur" in the name of the plant (and also the word for the rough edges on metal) comes from the Viking word for "bristle". The "dock" is a reference to the large leaves. It was known as butterdock in East Cornwall dialect, perhaps because the leaves were used to wrap butter as with butterbur leaves.

    Burdock seeds contain small hooks which attach to passing animals or clothing. After a walk in the woods in 1941 that was followed by the lengthy process of removing these from clothing and dogs, a Swiss engineer realised that there was scope to apply this to something useful. The product inspired by nature (aka "biomimicry") was described as "the zipperless zipper". Today is it better known by the name of company he founded based on the French words for velvet (velour) and hook (crochet): Velcro.

    Crop rotation within one field prevents the accumulation of pests and diseases specific to certain plants by creating a break in the lifecycle of pests between years. Also by staggering the crop rotation in adjacent fields, the spread of pests and diseases can be reduced.

  29. Go through the gateway and continue ahead across the field in the direction waymarked to reach the waymark on the hedge opposite. When you reach the hedge, keep this on your left to reach a gateway.

    Crows are omnivores and their ability to eat anything from animal feed to potato chips has allowed them to capitalise on food sources created by humans. Their problem-solving skills also allow them to access food that less savvy animals cannot, for example tugging on bin liners and tucking each fold under their feet to raise the contents of waste bins in motorway service stations.

  30. Head between the granite gateposts and follow the path to reach a lane. Bear right onto the lane and follow it until it ends at a junction.

    Another member of the crow family often found on farmland is the magpie.

    The folklore about magpies collecting shiny objects has been shown to be an incorrect myth. A scientific study found that magpies are actually scared of shiny objects and actively avoid them.

  31. On the opposite side of the road, to the right of the building, locate the small stile (which may be obscured by bushes). Climb this into the yard and cross the yard to the concrete steps beside the gate ahead.

    Scientists have found that adding a cupful of red seaweed per day to a cow's diet reduces the amount of methane that the cow burps out by about 80%. Due to the relatively short lifespan of methane in the atmosphere and the strong greenhouse effect from methane, this has the potential to make a quite quick but significant reduction to the rate of global warming, whilst the more tricky accumulative problem of carbon dioxide is being worked on.

  32. Climb the steps into the field and follow the right hedge to reach a similar series of stone steps in the corner of the field.

    Approximately half-way along the right hedge, just on the other side, is a granite cross.

    There are over four hundred complete stone crosses in Cornwall and at least another two hundred fragments.

    In the mediaeval period, stone crosses were sometimes placed by the road or path to mark the route to the parish church. Farms and hamlets were usually linked to the church by the most direct and level route. Crosses were also placed along routes of pilgrimage. Both of these have evolved to become some of today's Public Rights of Way.

  33. Climb the stone steps and follow the left hedge to a kissing gate.

    The Ramblers Association and National Farmers Union suggest some "dos and don'ts" for walkers which we've collated with some info from the local Countryside Access Team.

    Do

    • Stop, look and listen on entering a field. Look out for any animals and watch how they are behaving, particularly bulls or cows with calves
    • Be prepared for farm animals to react to your presence, especially if you have a dog with you.
    • Try to avoid getting between cows and their calves.
    • Move quickly and quietly, and if possible walk around the herd.
    • Keep your dog close and under effective control on a lead around cows and sheep.
    • Remember to close gates behind you when walking through fields containing livestock.
    • If you and your dog feel threatened, work your way to the field boundary and quietly make your way to safety.
    • Report any dangerous incidents to the Cornwall Council Countryside Access Team - phone 0300 1234 202 for emergencies or for non-emergencies use the iWalk Cornwall app to report a footpath issue (via the menu next to the direction on the directions screen).

    Don't

    • If you are threatened by cattle, don't hang onto your dog: let it go to allow the dog to run to safety.
    • Don't put yourself at risk. Find another way around the cattle and rejoin the footpath as soon as possible.
    • Don't panic or run. Most cattle will stop before they reach you. If they follow, just walk on quietly.
  34. Go through the gate and cross the stile. Then walk alongside the cottages on your right to reach a lane.
  35. Turn left onto the lane and follow it until it ends in a T-junction.

    The first record of Trevescan is from 1201 as Treweskin and is thought to mean simply "Weskin's farm". The fact that the name is in Cornish suggests that the settlement may date back to early mediaeval times but this is not as strongly the case as in East Cornwall where the Cornish language fell out of use much more quickly after the Norman Conquest.

  36. Carefully cross the road and follow the track opposite, marked with a public footpath sign. Continue until you reach a waymark post pointing at a path leading off to the right.

    During late winter or early spring, if you encounter a patch of plants with white bell-shaped flowers, smelling strongly of onions, and with long, narrow leaves then they are likely to be three-cornered leeks. Once you're familiar with their narrow, ridged leaves, you'll be able to spot these emerging from late October onwards.

    All plants in the onion family including three-cornered leeks are poisonous to dogs. Keep dogs away from the plant and wash their paws if they come into contact with it.

    Project Neptune was started by the National Trust in 1965 to purchase and protect large portions of the British coastline. By 1973 it had achieved its target of raising £2 million and 338 miles of coastline were looked-after. The project was so successful that it is still running although mainly focused on maintenance. There is still an occasional opportunity when privately-owned coastal land is sold. A particularly notable one was in 2016 when the land at Trevose Head was put up for sale and successfully purchased by the National Trust.

    In 1981 the National Trust put in a bid for £1 million using funds from Project Neptune to buy the coastline at Lands End.

  37. Turn right onto the waymarked path and follow it to some stone steps over a boulder leading into a field. Enter the field and follow the path ahead beneath the telegraph pole with a white rectangle to reach a kissing gate.

    Between the two species, some gorse is almost always in flower, hence the old country phrases: "when gorse is out of blossom, kissing's out of fashion" (which is recorded from the mid-19th century) and "when the furze is in bloom, my love's in tune" (which dates from the mid-18th century). Common gorse flowers are bright yellow. Western gorse flowers are very slightly more orange - more like the colour of the "yolk" in a Cadbury's creme egg. Also like creme eggs, gorse flowers are edible but are significantly better for use in salads and to make a tea, beer or wine.

    The development of Land’s End as a tourist attraction began back in the mid 1850s. It was owned by many generations of a local family who oversaw the development until 1980.

    In 1982, Land's End was purchased by Welsh businessman David Goldstone for 2.25 million, outbidding the National Trust who were hoping to prevent over-commercialisation. In 1983, Goldstone introduced an admission charge which lead to riots with people lying across the road to block traffic. It was sold again in 1987 for 7 million to Peter De Savary. Two new buildings were constructed and the theme park was created.

  38. Go through the gate and continue ahead to a stile just to the right of the gate opposite.

    The fields here are thought to be remnants of a mediaeval field system, some of which were terraced with earth and stone banks. Many of the fields would have originally been smaller, but some hedges have been removed over the years to create larger fields as farming became more industrialised.

  39. Cross the stile and cross the field towards the row of houses to reach a waymarked stile nestled between the boulders on the right of the gate.

    The granite at Lands End is quite distinctive with long, white crystals visible in the rocks. The body of granite stretches all the way to St Ives and is the reason that West Penwith is so rugged.

    The word granite comes from the Latin granum (a grain), in reference to its coarse-grained structure. Granite forms from a big blob of magma (known as a pluton) which intrudes into the existing rocks. The huge mass of molten rock stores an enormous amount of heat so the magma cools very slowly below the surface of the Earth, allowing plenty of time for large crystals to form.

  40. Cross the stile and follow the wall on the right to reach a kissing gate.

    On a clear day, the Isles of Scilly can be seen on the horizon above the Longships lighthouse.

    The Isles of Scilly lie 28 miles off Lands End and can be seen with the naked eye on a clear day. Scilly has been inhabited since the Stone Age and the inhabitants originally spoke the Celtic (Cornish) language. It is thought that possibly even as recently as Roman times, the 55 islets were once part of one large single island that has since been flooded by rising sea levels. During low spring tides, it is still possible to wade between some of the islands.

  41. Go through the gate and bear left onto the lane. Follow the lane until you reach a bend with Longships Watch Holiday Cottage on the left.

    Netting for mullet has been an important fishery at Sennen Cove for hundreds of years. In Edwardian times, up to 12,000 fish were caught at one time using seine nets hauled in from the beach. This traditional practice still continues and ten tonnes of mullet were caught in a single haul in 2015. However, the fishery has recently come under criticism as the fish aggregate in large shoals prior to spawning, and are caught before they are able to produce the next generation. It is, however, possible that the percentage of spawning fish caught by this method are sufficiently low that it is a sustainable practice. It is also possible that in the future, approaches similar to the National Lobster Hatchery in Padstow might be possible to achieve the "best of both worlds" where the captured adults are allowed to spawn in controlled conditions before being harvested for food, and the young are released after the benefit of completing the most vulnerable stages of their growth in a safe environment, boosting stocks beyond the levels of "natural" spawning.

  42. Follow the lane around the bend to the right and continue until you eventually reach Pol-An-Dre on the right and then a narrow drive with a Public Footpath sign just past this on the left.

    The bay on your left is known as Whitesand Bay, with Aire Point on the far side.

    There is a beach at Sennen Cove at all states of the tide but as the tide falls, a large area of white sand is revealed and the beach merges with Gwynver beach to form a mile of continuous white sand - hence the name Whitesand Bay (not to be confused with Whitsand Bay which is in southeast Cornwall, near Plymouth). The hard granite cliffs shed very little stone into the sand so it is formed predominantly from fragments of sea shells, particularly clam shells which are very pale in colour. The sand is similar at Porthcurno and Portheras Cove.

    In Cornish, the bay is known simply as Porth Senan (Sennen Cove). The bay is backed by nearly 100 acres of sand dunes, trapped between the headlands of Pedn-mên-du and Aire Point which form an important habitat for rare insect species.

    More about Whitesand Bay

  43. Turn left down the drive and follow it to a house. Join the narrow path departing from the right side of the driveway and follow this until you reach the road by the waterfront. Turn left to return to the car park and complete the circular route.

    There are good views across Whitesand Bay from the path and on a calm day you may be able to see the wreck of the SS Beaumaris.

    The SS Beaumaris was torpedoed 2.5 miles northwest of The Longships in February 1918 by a German U-boat. All the crew apart from the captain and a radio operator left the ship in lifeboats and were guided into shore by the Sennen lifeboat. The captain managed to run the ship onshore in Whitesand Bay and the top of the wreck now breaks the surface at low tide.

We assume the name arises from the sea appearing to boil as it breaks on the reef.

The smallest of the rocks off Land's End and sometimes mistaken for a whale or other large sea creature.

The folk tale of how the Irish Lady rock got its name is that a ship with an Irish crew was wrecked off Land's End and the only survivor was a woman who managed to climb from the sea onto the rock. According to the tale, the locals were unable to reach her to rescue her and she died of exposure.

If you've ever wondered why many headlands in West Cornwall are Pedn but in East Cornwall are Pen, it's because the Cornish language was in everyday use for longer in West Cornwall and carried on evolving whereas the names in East Cornwall were frozen earlier in time when English became established as the everyday language. In West Cornwall, short stressed syllables gained these extra letters ("n" became "dn" and "m" became "bm") as a way of stressing the syllable more. Celtic linguists call this "pre-occlusion".

In 1898, the Longships lighthouse was almost obliterated by an off course ship. The SS Bluejacket ran up the reef and its remains now lie in the shallows. The captain left course instructions with the first mate and then retired to his quarters. On passing Wolf Rock, the mate asked the captain for further instruction but the captain was reluctant to return from his quarters. The inexperienced mate decided to steer directly at the Longships lighthouse with predictable consequences. The captain was charged with neglect of his duties. A reason was not stated, but amongst those saved by the Sennen lifeboat was the Captain's wife.

Photo from 1898 at the National Maritime Museum

In September 1921, the steamship "Lambaness" (formerly known as the SS Sheila) was carrying coal from South Wales to Brittany. As she passed along the Penwith coast she ran into thick fog and heavy seas. She struck the rocks off Dr Syntax's Head at Lands End and sank. The crew managed to escape in the ship's boats and landed at Sennen Cove.

Photo from 1921 on wrecksite.eu (more info about the wreck on wrecksite.eu)

Granite formed as a molten blob of rock beneath the surface, underneath millions of tons of other rock. As the granite cooled, it cracked, mostly vertically due to the pressure from above. Hot water circulated through the cracks, reacting chemically with the rocks and depositing minerals. Over millions of years, the softer rocks above were eroded and the pressure from the weight of the rock above was released, causing horizontal cracking in the granite. The result is cubic blocks where the rough edges have been gradually smoothed by weathering.

Gannets are the largest sea birds in the North Atlantic with a wingspan of up to 2 metres and are easily recognisable by their long white wings with black tips. Gannets can dive from up to 30 metres, achieving speeds of up to 100kph as they strike the water, enabling them to catch fish much deeper than most seabirds. To achieve this they have air sacs in their face and chest, which act as cushioning when they hit the water. Also they have no external nostrils, instead they are situated inside the mouth.

The seal species most frequently seen along the Cornish coast is the grey seal. Common seals are also sometimes seen. Seals are not closely related to other marine mammals. The skeleton of an adult male grey seal (apart from the limbs) closely resembles that of a leopard. However, as you might be able to guess from their facial features, seals are most closely related to dogs, bears and otters. In fact, a dog is very much more closely related to a seal than a dog is to a cat.

Seal pups have been seen in every month of the year but the majority are born in the autumn and early winter. Female seals mate soon after weaning their pups whilst the males are still around defending and patrolling the beaches. For just over three months the fertilised embryo does not attach to the wall of the uterus and does not develop. There then follows a gestation period of just under 9 months. This evolutionary strategy - known as delayed implantation - results in the pups being born at the same time every year.

Research by the Cornwall Seal Group Research Trust has found that the majority of seals in Cornwall are tourists, stopping over on their way to somewhere else. Very few seals spend the whole year in one place and some of those visiting Cornwall have been identified in Wales and others in France.

Grey Seals are one of the rarest seal species in the world and the biggest land breeding mammal in the UK. Roughly half of the world population of grey seals is found in Britain, a large proportion of which are found in Cornwall. They are big animals with the larger males often over 10ft long; the females are somewhat smaller at around 6ft and usually lighter colours than the males. The Latin name for the grey seal translates to the somewhat unflattering "hooked-nosed sea pig" and the alternative common name of "horsehead seal" isn't much better.

Seals are easily disturbed by the presence of humans (and dogs) and this is can be the difference between life and death for seals in several different ways. Perhaps the most obvious is that a panicking seal is liable to injure itself rushing for the water. When breeding, even mild disturbance can lead to mothers abandoning their pups which then starve to death. More subtly, disturbance also causes seals to burn up their precious energy reserves. Even in a "good" year, 75% of young seals can end up dying due to insufficient energy reserves (95% in a very bad year!). If a seal looks at you, this should ring alarm bells as it means you're too close. To watch seals responsibly, it's important to keep your distance (at least 100m), avoid being conspicuous (e.g. on the skyline) and minimise noise.

The Cornwall Seal Group Research Trust gather information about the numbers of seals in each location to study migration behaviour. Each seal has a unique pattern of spots which is like a fingerprint, allowing individuals to be identified so photos are also very useful.

If you see one or more seals, take a photo if possible but never approach the seals to take a photo - use a zoom from a clifftop. Send the location, date, number of seals and photos if you have them to sightings@cornwallsealgroup.co.uk.

The Sea Campion flowers from June to August and can be recognised by the white petals emerging from the end of a distinctive inflated envelope. Their grey-green leaves are fleshy, which protect them from drying out in salt-laden winds.

According to folklore, to pick a Sea Campion was to invite death. This might be something to do with the precipitous locations in which they grow! Consequently another name for the plant is "dead man's bells".

Ravens are the largest member of the crow family and have a bigger wingspan than a buzzard. They are most easily distinguished from other members of the crow family by their very large black beak which has a hooked top. Other members of the crow family have straighter beaks. Their call is a deep croak.

During Victorian times, ravens were exterminated by farmers and gamekeepers throughout much of the UK but retained a stronghold in the southwest. Their nests, constructed of robust twigs, can be seen along the cliffs in Cornwall.

Researchers have found that ravens use gestures to communicate in a similar way to humans. Obviously ravens don't have hands so instead they point with their beaks to indicate an object to another bird, just as we do with our fingers. They also hold up an object in their beak to get another bird's attention.

Scientists have found that ravens will console a friend after it has had an aggressive encounter with another bird. This is good evidence for empathy i.e. the birds are able to determine emotional needs of other birds and respond to them.

In order to be processed, ore-bearing rock mined from mineral veins needed to be crushed to a powder. In earlier times, millstones were used to grind down lumps of ore but later it was done using a process known as "stamping" where the ore was crushed by dropping heavy granite or metal weights to pound it against another hard surface (often a piece of granite known as a mortar stone - as in "pestle and mortar"). The crushing was automated first with waterwheels and later with steam engines. The process was far from quiet and could often be heard from a number of miles away.

The chough is a member of the crow family, with striking red legs and a red beak. They are also recognisable from feathers, spread like fingers, on their wing tips. It was known as the "Crow of Cornwall" and appears on the county coat of arms. The birds have a loud, distinctive "chee-ow" call which is perhaps best described as resembling a squeaky dog toy! Once you've heard it a couple of times, you'll be able to recognise them from the sound long before you can see them.

The name "chough" is from the bird's call although this is not that accurate as "chough" is more like the sound a jackdaw makes (a very short "chu"). Locally, choughs were known as "chaws" which is a better representation of their (much longer) sound.

The old Cornish name for the bird is Palores, meaning digger, which is thought to be a description of it rooting for invertebrates.

The scientific name (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax) means "fire crow" which is likely to be an allusion to its red bill and legs. This possibly also relates to the birds' mischievous reputation during the Tudor and Elizabethan periods for stealing lighted candles or embers and dropping these onto roofs, which were generally thatched in Cornwall at this time.

In the 1800s, many choughs were killed by "sportsmen" and trophy hunters. Also around this time, grazing livestock were moved to inland pastures where they could be more easily managed. The result was that the cliff slopes became overgrown and choughs found it increasingly difficult to find suitable feeding areas. By 1973, the chough had become extinct in Cornwall. In recent years, clifftops have been managed more actively which has included the reintroduction of grazing. Choughs have returned to Cornwall by themselves from colonies in Wales or Ireland.

After several decades of extinction, a pair of choughs settled in 2001 on the Lizard Peninsula. Since then, the birds have successfully bred and been joined by a few more incoming birds, and the population has steadily grown and spread further across Cornwall. Each Cornish chough is fitted with one leg ring in the colours of St Piran's flag and two other colours on the opposite leg to identify them.

If you think you've seen a chough, take a photo if possible and email choughs@cbwps.org.uk to report the sighting. This will help the "Chough Watch" team keep track of the growing population.

During the breeding season (beginning of April to the end of June), chough eggs and chicks are very vulnerable to predators (including dogs) and many young birds die in their first 6 months. You can make a substantial difference to their chances of survival and to increasing Cornwall's chough population by keeping dogs on leads along the coast and also by avoiding naming exact locations if you post photos on social media during this period.

Nanjizal is also known as Mill Bay due to the stamping (ore crushing) mill that was powered by a waterwheel here. The sand on the beach is prone to being moved in and out with storms so some years it has white sand and others it's entirely rocky. The gully along the left side of the beach ending in a narrow archway is known as "song of the sea".